As mentioned a few weeks ago, my overlocker blades are blunt. I have ordered a new set and while I wait for them to be delivered I really don’t want to be using the overlocker.
That meant the things I had planned to make had to go on the back burner. I was still keen to crack on with my make nine and keep reducing my stash! Luckily there was one thing on there that didn’t need any seam finishing – the boiled wool coat.
The only thing to sort out was the pattern to use. Now I haven’t got many coat patterns to choose from and I am keen to use as much as I can from my stash this year so I turned to my growing collection of unused Burda magazines. I found the perfect coat pattern in the 11-2017 issue.
The maze of lines to puzzle through – I’m not entirely sure I traced out the front and the hood correctly!
I decided to flat fell all the seams for strength since the fabric was quite heavy. Having never done it before I searched the technique. I found there were at least 3 or 4 different ways of achieving this. This is one of the things I love about sewing – there’s always another way of doing something, so if something doesn’t make sense just try another method! The way I did it was to sew the seams with the right sides together, trim one side of the seam allowance and then fold the other side over and stitch down. I didn’t fold it under as the fabric doesn’t fray and it would have been far too bulky.
I didn’t line this coat or use any of the facings, so it was a very simple sew. It also meant that instead of taking 4m it only took 2.3m of fabric, which is great as I only had 3m anyway. I’ll see of I can squeeze out a little red coat from it for my daughter.
However now it is all done I’m not sure about it. Does it look too much like a dressing gown/bath robe?
Would it be better of I replaced the tie with a button?
Does the hood look a bit Handmaidens tale/Emperor Palpatine? Should I cut off the hood and turn it into a collar?
Should I do both? Please weigh in with your thoughts in the comments.
Description. A wrap coat with oversized lapels, cut-on hood, patch pockets and waist tie
Sizing: size 36-44. I cut size 36, the size chart would put me in size 44 for the bust and 42 for the waist and hips. I cut the smallest size possible based on measurement of the pattern as I didn’t want masses of ease. Currently the front overlap is a bit small but I am still 10kg up on my pre pregnancy weight. The shoulders fit very nicely on this smaller size.
Did it look like the envelope drawing? Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow? This was a simple unstructured coat, which I then further simplified, so the instructions were more than adequate for me. Burda magazines have very concise instructions – they assume you know what you are doing, so things like stay stitching aren’t mentioned.
Likes/dislikes: The tracing gave me a headache – so many overlapping lines to follow. But I guess that is the trade off for all the magazine patterns for the cost of 1 envelope pattern. I also liked how Burda numbered the seams- it was very helpful when sewing up.
Fabric used: this boiled wool . Very nice quality, stable and easy to sew.
Alterations/design changes? As it is made from boiled wool the facings are not required. I also omitted the lining. I flat felled the seams to get a nice finish inside and out. If I made it again I think I would add cuffs to finish the sleeves. I might add them to this one if the sleeves bother me.
Would I sew again? I would recommend the pattern but I am unlikely to sew it again anytime soon. It would be lovely in a double faced fabric, as with flat felled seams you would have a reversible coat.
Things I learnt:
I actually sewed up one of my Burda Style magazine patterns! And it wasn’t too bad. I’ve plenty more patterns I want to sew now from my magazines. 😀
This is the first time I have worked with boiled wool. It was very nice to use. It is a shame that the material is not more versatile so it could be used in more items.
I have never flat felled a seam before. Turns out it is an easy technique with a great finish- I really think it elevated this coat, and looks very professional.
How does this fit in as a Kibbe Soft Natural:
The boiled wool fits in with the fabric recommendations of a slightly rough finish and being tactile. The colour is nice and bright as well.
The coat has an unconstructed silhouette, as is straight from the armsyce. The shaping is provided by the tie at the waist. The neckline is a shawl like collar as recommended (loose, soft and open)